The Circus is in Town

So we have made it to Elba - the Tuscan island famous for its one time temporary resident Napoleon and the subject of an apparently famous palindrone which goes “Able was I ere I saw Elba”.  The crew being intrigured by this are busy trying to think up another clever palindrone but its harder than it looks.

Porto Ferraio, Elba

We sailed up the eastern seaboard of Corsica after a few days relaxing at anchor in a bay close to Porto Vecchia.  The east coast is relatively flat with few indents affording places to stop overnight but the scenery is pretty impressive with a coastal plain flanked by mountains further inland.  We stopped for the night at a place called Bastia which is the major town in the North East.  It is a really interesting place.  As with many of these towns there is the old port seemingly carved out of the surrounding hillside and overlooked by an old citadel.  The port is ringed by Italian styled buildings in different muted pastel colours and these progress further and further up the hillsides and are interconnected by ancient flagstone stairs and narrow alleys.

Bastia Vieux Port

There is also a newer area in the town built around a huge square near the busy ferry quays.  The town was a lot quieter than the other Corsican places we had visited which suited us more.  It also seemed more of a working town than just a tourist stop.  It was great place to end our time in Corsica.

Bastia Streets

Since arriving in Corsica the number of other boats has risen dramatically.  Most seem to be either locals or people enjoying a couple of weeks holiday on their boat which they keep either in an island marina or in the Italian or French mainland.  The number of “cruisers” appears relatively low.  There are subtle clues which tell you if a boat is a long term cruiser such as whether or not the boat has a wind generator, whether it has excess gear strapped around the mast on deck or whether it has fenders hanging over the side etc.  The real giveaway however is whether or not the helmsman is sailing wearing only a pair of speedo’s!

Given the increasing crowds and associated costs our plan is now to move quickly through Italy as it is the height of the season.  We will stop for a few days around the Gulf of Naples, hopefully see Pompei then a few days in Sicily before heading across to Croatia.

The following day we sailed across to an island called Capraia which belongs to Italy.  Two weeks ago we had not even heard of this place but we had met another cruiser who said it was worth a look.  So we sailed the 26NM and dropped anchor in the bay off Capraia port in the afternoon.  The small port contained a marina and a row of shops, restaurants fronting the harbour which is contained behind a couple of breakwaters.  A road runs from the harbour to the small town of Capraia which sits in the shadow of a citadel  on the hillside overlooking the southern entrance to the bay.  All very picturesque.

Statue at the entrance to Port Carpria

We went to the marina to check Nic in as she is the only one on a Non EU passport and were told not to worry about it.  Its great to be back in Italy and the laid back attitude.  Unfortunately some of the Italians seem to drive their boats in the same way they drive their cars.  Over the next couple of days we had a few close calls with boats mooring close to us.  One night a motor boat was about a meter off our bow at one point and the guy looked as if he did not have a clue.  Just what you would expect with a boat named “My Toy”.

Everyone Still Smiling at Capraia

The weather kicked up a bit and after a few days in the bay we headed to Elba.  At anchor on the last night in Capraia there was a terrific thunderstorm which passed right overhead and gave us an amazing if slightly unnerving display of lightning.  Luckily there were some hills around but you are still very concious of the mast sticking up proudly in the sky and waiting for a strike.

Elba was a short hop away and we dropped anchor in Porto Ferraio harbour.  Another beautiful port town complete with citadel etc.  These towns are great fun to just walk around and explore.  You always find something unusual and interesting and the veiws are awesome.  We used the time to catch up on shopping, laundry and school and Sam managed to get himself up the mast of another boat to help the guy fix his radar.  The big job was to get Sam a haircut but we failed miserably with that so he has to wait now until the next port of call.

Does it get any more Italian

There was a circus in town and Nic took Calley as she had never been to a circus before.  (Calley not Nic).  It was one of those very European type circuses where they still use a big top and have a few animals.  All the performers have the same surname and need to multi task to keep overheads down such that  the clown is also the high trapeze act and the lion tamer is a contortionist or knife thrower.  The acts are fun to watch but invariably some just fall flat but the show goes on.  Calley especially thought it was fantastic.  She was amazed by simple tricks like a chicken riding a pony.

The big Top across the anchorage

We have pushed on to a place called Porto Azzura on the east coast of Elba and will move south in the next day or two possibly stopping in overnight at Giglio made famous by the grounding of the Costa Concordia which was just towed away in the last few days.