Ile de Saint Barthelemy

....or St Barths as everybody refers to it is just gorgeous.  We were here about 12 years ago on a day trip and were very impressed then and its been great to be able to spend a few more days here.

We left St Maarten as planned on the Tuesday morning after a really productive and pleasant stay in St Maarten.  The marina we stayed in (La Palapa) was fantastic and the staff really helpful.  We slipped our lines at 0830 in order to catch the 0900 bridge opening out of the lagoon and then set a course for St Barths which unfortunately was almost directly upwind but fortunately only about 15NM away.

The lagoon bridge at ST Maarten

We had a slow sail across tacking a few times as the wind shifted.  Pete had a line in the water the whole time but we only succeeded in catching a barracuda which we threw back as they are apparently not very good eating.  There is a small isle just North of St Barths called Ile de Fourchue which is in the shape of a horseshoe with a central spine of hills and so forms a very protected natural anchorage which proved to be quite deep.  We decided to stop there for lunch which turned into an overnight stop as it was just so idyllic.  We just swam and relaxed for the day and in the afternoon Scott went ashore to walk the ridge between four of the hills - no-one else could get up the energy to join him.  

Ashore the island is pretty rugged.  Its covered in shrubby vegetation and cactuses.  There used to be goats on the island but they ate everything and had to be evacuated.  The island is starting to recover and there are even some small trees on it.  There was a great ridge walk linking the hills and you could walk it along the length of the entire island.  The hills were great fun - rock in interesting formations, perfect for scrambling and high enough to provide great views over the bay and onto St Barths.

Dulcinea in Ile de Fourchue

The next morning we sailed into Gustavia the capital of St Barths.  St Barths, as most of these islands, has been fought over by the French, British and Spanish over the years.  At one point it was Swedish but then reverted back to France about 130 years ago.  AT one time it was owned by Malta!!  Over the last 30 years or so it has built up a tourism industry which is based on the rich and famous and an image of sophistication.  It is now considered the St Tropez or Monaco of the Caribbean.   Gustavia is a gorgeous town built around a natural harbour where megayachts can moor mediterranean style along the inner wharves.  There are a lot of original buildings which have been renovated and the more recent additions have been tastefully integrated for the most part.  There are no buildings higher than a couple of stories.  Looking into the harbour area you see the green hillsides and the red roofs.

Gustavia inner harbour

Gustavia street scene

The streets are full of chic shops and all the big names have an outlet here.  Needless to say its expensive but great to have a wander around.  The other benefit is the French food.  We have been gorging ourselves on baguettes and pastries.  It is fantastic to be able to walk to a bakery and get fresh bread.  We have been out a couple of times into town for dinner and both times the meals have been superb.  The first time everyone went out and then last night Pete and Claire watched the kids while we went into town on our own.  We found a place called Le Repaire just off the dock and had a fantastic french meal as only the french can do.  Sitting here it is just as if you were in mainland France.  

Le Repaire - Sensational menu

The island is quite small and we have confined ourselves to Gustavia.  It is nice just to wander around and stop for a coffee in a cafe every now and then and take in the street scenes.  We have been trying to do school but have still managed to see the town, a gorgeous beach called Shell Beach and the remains of a local fort.  (Seems that no Caribbean island is complete unless it has a ruined fort.).  The kids have managed to snorkel around in the outer harbour where there are some small rock islands and a shipwreck, and Pete and Calley have cleaned the waterline of Dulcinea.  Everyone bar Claire and Scott made it into the local fish market at 0600 one morning to get some fresh mahi mahi and lobster for dinner.

Beautiful Shell Beach

We are moving to Antigua tonight.  We will sail around 0200 or 0300 tomorrow morning and should be there around mid afternoon.  The wind is brisk and will probably be around 15 to 20kts gusting 25 to 30kts.  

Next stop Antigua