Maine

Note:  Following post is slightly late as have been out of internet range.  This is up to approx 17th Aug - no photos I am afraid as internet too slow.  WIll update with another in next 24 hrs

Left the Isles of Shoales on Thursday and headed North.  We intended to make a stop 30 to 40miles up the coast to visit with some Harvard friends but mix up in comms meant we decided to push through towards the Maine coast within striking distance of our final destination which is Penobscot Bay area.

We started out in 5 to 10 knts of wind and were making 5kts but the wind started to die and we debated whether to switch on the engine.  Our cut off is around the 3 knots mark - any slower than that and the engine comes on.  As Skip once told us the most important piece of equipment on a sailboat is an engine - couldn’t agree more.  However the wind came on and began to build.  soon it was blowing 15 to 20kts and we put in a reef in the main and switched the Genoa for the staysail.  (Apologies for the tech speak but someone will get it).  We carried that sail for the rest of the day with winds gusting to 25kts making 8 to 9kts boat speed.  It was a fantastic sail.  Both Nic and Sam managed to stand their first watch on their own - all be it not quite the required 4hrs.  We were tracking parallel to the the coast approximately 10 miles off for most of the day and as after midday the promising start gave way to rain squalls which turned into a steady downpour.

Our chosen anchorage was Lewis Cove in Linekin Bay near a well known town of Boothbay Harbour.  We closed on the coast around 6pm in pouring rain but with the wind relenting.  The coastline is a magnificent jumble of islands, bays and headlands with plenty of water in between.  It is reminiscent of the West Coast of Scotland and even more so with the rain and grey skies.  The land is hilly but not mountainous but it all seems to be covered with forests which come right down to the waters edge.  Where there are no trees there are big rocks showing.  As we sailed into the bay porpoises surfaced nearby.  First one and then a a few more.  This kids were so excited to see them. 

We carried on into the bay sailing between islands and up into the chosen cove to anchor.  Just as we decided to anchor the wind picked up just to test us.  The anchor went down with 20m of chain in water about 7m deep but would not hold.  We recovered and tried to reset but again the anchor refused to hold.  We were in the middle of trying for a third time, with the light fading and wondering what the next course of action would be when Nic managed to speak to a resort nearby which had a couple of permanent moorings for rent.  We picked one of those and hastily tied up just as darkness was settling in.

It had been a long day and everyone was cold and tired so we fired up the genset, and all had hot showers and some food and turned in for the night.  I think we all agree that hot showers are another necessity for a boat.

Next morning was perfectly still with clear blue skies.  Coming up on deck the sun is just beginning to warm up the air and dry off the teak decks,  The cove we are in is beautiful and smells of trees.  Around three sides of us are dense forests of many different types of wood studded with what look like holiday houses.  At various points small private wooden piers jut out into the water to provide access to boats or for swimming.  There are a number of boats moored around us - dinghy’s, day sailers, motorboats and working lobster fishing boats.  All around small floats gently bob around marking the location of the lobster pots.  We have become accustomed to these and you need to be ever vigilant when sailing to ensure you do not run over them and foul the propellor.  On the headland just nearby is a small resort building resembling a lodge with cabins clustered around it.  We can watch people going about their holidays at the resort - taking kayaks out, swimming, lounging on the pier or the lawns around the lodge - it reminds us of the “Dirty Dancing” resort. The pictures we have do not really do it justice.

We decide pretty easily that we will spend the day and another night moored here.  Its a school day (lesson 4 - we are really slaying this) so that occupies us for the morning and early afternoon after which time we dinghy into shore and walk to the nearby town of Boothbay Harbour.  We follow roads and a track pointed out by the resort staff over the peninsula and walk through the forests to a long footbridge which takes us across a small estuary and into Boothbay Harbour.  The town like many on the coast is a fishing and tourist port.  Lots of whale watching, chowder restaurants and sightseers.  There are lots of working fishing towns on this coast which is fantastic to see and obviously the lobster industry is huge but the area also has a lot of local arts and crafts.  The town is lovely with quaint shops and buildings that have become very familiar to us.  We had an early dinner then wandered back to the boat for an early night.

We will push on to Penobscot Bay tomorrow.  We have a mixed forecast so are expecting some rain.